Monday, February 28, 2011

Quiet Days and Library Woes

First, I want to say that I am very excited and proud about the revolutionary movements erupting across the Middle East. I have been staying tuned-in on BBC World and Al-Jazeera English on the tube as well as numerous news websites, blogs, tweets, Facebook posts, etc. Some of my friends have made the news. Here's a piece from the Tucson Sentinel written by my friend and colleague Zohra Yaqub who links the recent events back home to Tucson and quotes other friends of mine, Noel Rivera and Nadia Hamrouni. In addition, a Libyan colleague, Yusra Tekbali, made an appearance on CNN. The last link I want to post is a analysis of the political climate in Syria (where I spent the last 3.5 months and now have many friends) by Al- Jazeera that I find right on target. Finally, my heart is with all these brave protesters and revolutionaries and I am praying for a new era of peace and democracy and most importantly independence from Western forces in the Middle East!!
Female protesters in Egypt.

   Well, things are much less exciting these days in my personal life, but that's alright. I just finished reading "The Lacuna" by Barbara Kingsolver and am starting on the classic "A Tree Grows in Brooklyn" which I checked out from the Mersin public library (Mersin Il Halk Kütüphanesi). It's a very small library and I admit I was disappointed, as Mersin is about the same size of Tucson, which has numerous and to say the least, adequate libraries. I expected something more substantial from Mersin. When I complained of this to Ahmet he said to me, "That's why we're not a developed country...nobody reads." I'm not sure if his theory is correct but I did  feel lousy for complaining. I confess that I have taken the Tucson-Pima Public Libraries for granted before this day. Not that I never used them or thought ill of them; I just never realized that we are so lucky to have them - and so many of them - with new acquisitions, special literacy programs, etc.

Mersin Public Library
   The Mersin library building itself is rather grand, one of the oldest in Mersin I presume, but its mostly full of government employee offices who, from what Ahmet and I witnessed, aren't doing much of anything. There is just one small room for adult books with maybe 20 bookshelves and most of the books are at least 30 years old. I will give them credit for at least having 3 shelves or English literature books, although the ones not translated into Turkish were mostly pulp fictions, Danielle Steel-style romances or Middle School-level reading (understandable for readers who are not native speakers).
   Along those lines,  I wanted to check out some children's books in Turkish to help my own language acquisition along. The children's section was on the opposite end of the hallway, another singular room even more sparse then the adult section. A lone librarian and child were inside. The librarian seemed puzzled to see us and asked what we were doing there. Ahmet told her we were just looking. She informed him that only children can check-out books from the children's section. He said that I was interested because I was only able to read at a child-level. She didn't budge, "rules are rules". I was pretty irked. "What if we had a child at home?" I wanted to know, to which she responded that the child must be present to check out the books. Say WHAT?! I wanted to speak to the Director. Conveniently, right down the hall amongst the many other bureaucratic offices.
   Ahmet explained to him the situation and he confirmed the rule: only children (who must be present) have access to the children's books. Ahmet pressed him, explaining that they should be supportive of a foreigner trying to learn their language. And what about the mentally-handicapped who could only read at a lower-level? What if parents are unable to physically bring their children to the library but would like to check-out books for them to read? The Dırector must have seen his point because he offered to make an exception and allow me to check out the books. He told Ahmet that before, anyone could check them out but then somebody made a fuss that adults were hoarding all the children's books and when a certain government Minister got involved, they made the present regulation. Unbelievable! Sometimes I am astounded by how a single individual can have such a negative (and ridiculous) effect on others, such as this alleged complainer. In the end, I left without any chıldren's book, as I was unaware of a second regulation, that of checking out only 3 books at a time. I was already at the limit.
   Other than the library excitement, I am taking an online course to become TESL (Teaching English as a Second Language) certified. Hopefully after this roadblock is surpassed I can start teaching and make a little money before my Mom and her friend Joan come out for a visit mid-May. I am getting very excited for their trip, researching vacation destinations and plotting-out itineraries with them via Skype.
   Next week I am going to visit Northern Cyprus because I have to leave the country in order to get another 3-month tourist visa.  As luck would have it, there is a port right outside the city where you can catch a ferry and be there in 2-4 hours. I'll be staying at a eco-farm/B&B that has sheep they milk and make cheese from each day so I'm going to learn how! I'm  really looking forward to it and also to hiking around in what I've read is really quiet and breathtaking mountains and beaches. Wildflowers should be out and I am hoping to get some bird-watching in as well. There are tons of endemic species on the island that I've been reading about. Yahoo!!

Until soon. (I'm preparing a post on nuts and orchids; watch out!)

AMS

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

The Holidays Abroad

Thanksgiving in Aleppo

Maite and I decided to have a Thanksgiving dinner at our home. This was to be my first time hosting a Thanksgiving, so there was lots of research to be done regarding how to prepare, cook and carve a turkey, make pie crust, etc. While trying to track down appropriate ingredients from around the city, we failed to find pumpkin or squash of any kind. So instead of pumpkin pie I made a sweet potato and carrot pie with a walnut honey topping. Sounds a bit strange but it was really delicious and with the orange color and pumpkin pie spices, it was almost the same. We found a turkey, but it was extremely expensive and due to other reasons I will elaborate upon, Maite roasted a chicken stuffed with apples in pomegranate syrup instead. For sides, we made mashed potatoes, stuffing, green beans, and rolls. 
We had sent-out an open invitation at work and when it was all said and done we were 13 in all, representing 10 countries: America, Syria, Spain, Austria, Italy, Belgium, Central African Republic, Mongolia, Germany and France. We barely fit in our little house, and some people had to use spoons instead of forks, but it was lots of fun!

About the Turkey: we found a frozen Butterball turkey at the new foreign-owned super-market by our house that imports most of its foods from outside Syria. I was debating whether or not to buy it, since it was from imported from so far away, and thus had a large carbon footprint. Maite also mentioned how eating turkey on Thanksgiving was something many people boycott because of the American meat industry, etc. On the other hand, I was feeling pretty nostalgic in addition to wanting to show the foreign guests a “real” American Thanksgiving which meant having a "real" turkey. But the price of the small turkey was almost 1,800 Syrian pounds, which is almost $40. I'm not sure what the typical cost of a turkey in the U.S. is; maybe about the same. But in Syria, where the average salary is $200/month I couldn't justify the cost. It isn't that I couldn't afford the turkey; I didn't want to “afford” it. I'm living here along side Syrians who make extremely low wages and I don't want to perpetuate the stereotype of all Westerners being rich and greedy consumers. So, we had a delicious local chicken instead, for a mere $5-7. :)

I made a toast before dinner and then we all dug-in and enjoyed not only the delicious dinner but a feast of desserts as well! In addition to the pie I made, we had two chocolate cakes and a tiramisu!  It was a very fun evening and I felt very thankful indeed to have such a wonderful group of friends here in Aleppo to cook for and share my American holiday with. Only two of the guests had been to a Thanksgiving dinner before, so I think it was a fun experience for them, too. 
My very first pie crust - it's about time!
Showing off my finished product.

Maite cleaning the chicken.

Maite's roast chicken.
Friends at the Thanksgiving table.
December

December was a very busy month; lots of socializing! I'm posting some pictures from a few of these events. First, breakfast at Abu Zaytoon's home (his name literally means "Father of the Olives") with his wife and extended family. He is a technician at ICARDA that had worked closely with Maite. He's very They had fun dressing me and Maite up and taking photos.
Then there was the couscous feast at Dr. John Ryan's home. He is the senior soil scientist at ICARDA and a delightful human being. From the moment I met him, I really loved him, and not just because of his darling Irish accent. It turns out that he went to school at the UofA, which is where he met his wife and they own a home in Tucson and regularly visit. He and his wife also lived in Morocco for maybe 10 years, so we connected over that as well. I was thrilled when he invited me to their house for couscous. They had brought their Moroccan housekeeper here with them to Syria and that she made truly amazing couscous. It really brought me back. Plus, they had all sorts of Arizona memorabilia around their house (my fave was the javelina mug in the bathroom) which made me feel right at home. I hope I can meet up with them in the future in Tucson!
Maite & Abu Zaytoon's wife.




Visiting with Abu Zaytoon's family.

The Ryans' couscous night.


Christmas decorations in Sulemaniya neighborhood.
Church decorated for Christmas, AlJadaida.
Apartment decorated for Christmas.

Lona trimming fir trees to create our x-mas tree.
Trashy Christmas lingerie.

Ho-Ho-Ho, Happy Christmas!
Then there was Christmas! I believe it ended up being a blessing spending Christmas in Aleppo rather than Turkey. First of all, many of my friends were staying in town and we decided to all celebrate together with a big dinner party. My friend Keri came up from Damascus and it was really nice having another Tucsonan around. Secondly, because there's such a large Christian population in Aleppo, there was a many stores and apartments decorated for Christmas which made it feel a little more like "home". Since it was my first Christmas away from home, it was definitely hard. But, I made the special Christmas cookies my Dad always makes successfully and was able to Skype with my family on Christmas morning and later that day with my extended family as well. 

Lona was house/cat-sitting for her advisor who has a very nice, big flat (with heated floors!) in the New Sha'aba district that we were lucky to be able to party at. The original plan to get a live tree transformed into the slightly more environmental choice of trimming some of the fir trees at ICARDA which Lona skillfully molded into a tree shape, a decorated with trimmings I brought back from Turkey. Lona also arrange ahead of time to get a turkey from one on the villages around Aleppo. I guess you need to arrange far in advance so they can start feeding it properly before they kill it. It was also both Lona and my first time roasting a turkey, so that was a fun experience. It turned out to be a delicious success, mostly thanks to Lona's amazing marinade.
We also had a secret-Santa gift exchange, decorated Christmas cookies in the Seidler tradition (I used arak for the anise flavor since I couldn't find any extract), and watched "Dinner for One" which is a wacky German play (but in English) that is a holiday tradition for Lona. It was a really nice night; we didn't go home until well after 2am!
Our "Christmas Tree". The creepy Krampus-like wooden statue behind it was later removed.

Our turkey marinating.
Cutting the cookies!

Christmas dinner.

Aleppo friends :)

Opening secret-Santa gifts. Peter got a drum!



How very "Lawrence".

Getting ready to decorate the cookies!

Narryne takes her decorating very seriously.
On Christmas Day, Keri and I slept in after out long Christmas-eve celebration. Maite prepared an amazing Spanish feast and we had some guests over to celebrate. It was another long and entertaining evening.


Maite's Christmas Day Spanish feast!

Getting ready for dinner party #2!
















Photos from sight-seeing in Aleppo with Keri:
Minbar at the Ummayad mosque in Aleppo.


Shrine of Zaccariah.


Keri & me inside the mosque's courtyard.

Ummayad Mosque courtyard.

Interior mosque door.

Inside the mosque.




Nouria (waterwheel) at Hama.
Keri gazing at the wheel.


Hama water wheels on the Orontes at night.

 
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Maite & Keri working on their New Year's wishes.
 We wrote our New Year's wishes/ resolutions and sealed them inside small clay jars to open a year in the future. :)

Maite sealing her secret New Year's wish.

My wish, sealed up tight!



2011
I rang in the New Year with Ahmet in Ankara. I took the bust to Mersin and we drove the next day to Ankara with his friend Caner, a very goofy 23-year-old Kurdish man. Ankara was lovely - chilly but decorated with colorful lights and Christmas trees (except in Turkey they are New Year's Trees). We stayed in Ahmet's family's flat which was pretty centrally located. We had a very nice dinner at a pub where we also rang in the new year, surrounded by lots of other young Turks, some of us wearing pointed hats, but all drinking and having a rowdy, good time. 


Modeling the gifts Ahmet's mom Remziye & I exchanged for Christmas. 

Toros Mountains outside Mersin, on the road North to Ankara.

Ahmet & Caner: New Year's Eve - Ankara.

Me & Ahmet on NYE.

Amazing mezze.

Road trip!!

Gorgeous peak on the road between Ankara & Niğde.